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6 Foods to Try in Bhaktapur—and How to Order a Better Tasting Day

Juju dhau served in a clay bowl.
Juju dhau served in a clay bowl. Photo: Gaurav Dhwaj Khadka / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0. Resized for web.

A Bhaktapur food day can move from a warm lentil patty to a rice-flour sweet and finish with a pot of the city’s famous curd. That variety is what makes Newar cooking so enjoyable to explore: different textures, fillings and accompaniments, often within a short walk.

You do not need six full meals. Pick a few of these foods, share where it makes sense and leave room for a second visit.

1. Juju dhau: Bhaktapur’s famous curd

Juju dhau is closely associated with Bhaktapur, where curd is part of the city’s food identity. The Handbook of Traditional Foods of Nepal describes buffalo milk as the preferred base. Its appeal is in the thick texture, making a small serving a satisfying finish to a meal.

Ask whether the version is sweetened and enjoy it soon after buying. A clay pot makes an attractive serving vessel, but it does not make dairy suitable for a long day in a warm bag.

2. Bara or wo: a savoury stop

Lentils form the base of these patties. Depending on the kitchen, you may find plain versions or toppings such as egg and meat. A fresh serving is a good way to start a tasting route without committing to a large meal.

Describe the version you want when ordering. A plain-looking name on a menu does not tell you which toppings the cook plans to add.

3. Chatamari: rice batter with room for variation

Chatamari starts with rice batter and can carry different toppings. It brings a contrasting texture to a spread that already includes lentils or curd. Ask what the kitchen’s version includes and how large it is before deciding whether to share.

4. Yomari: leave room for something sweet

This steamed rice-flour preparation belongs to Newar food traditions and is especially associated with the winter festival of Yomari Punhi. Fillings and availability vary. Ask what is being made that day instead of expecting every restaurant to keep it on the menu year-round.

Yomari, a filled rice-flour dumpling.
Yomari, a filled rice-flour dumpling. Photo: Ritesh Man Tamrakar / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0. Resized for web.

5. Samay baji: choose a full plate

Beaten rice anchors a combination of accompaniments that can include vegetables, beans, egg, meat and pickle. The mix is the attraction: each part changes how you experience the others. If this is your main meal, you may not need several additional snacks.

Ask the server to identify the components, especially when ordering for someone who avoids meat or eggs. Different kitchens assemble different plates.

6. Aalu tama: a sour note in the meal

Potato, bamboo shoots and beans form the basis of aalu tama. Fermented bamboo brings a sourness that distinguishes it from the other foods on this list. Choose it when you want a bowl with a different flavour profile, and ask about the kitchen’s level of spice.

Plan around appetite, not a checklist

A manageable first visit might include bara, a shared plate of samay baji and juju dhau afterwards. Save chatamari, yomari or aalu tama for whichever stop has them available. Menus and prices change; the most useful conversation is with the person preparing your food.

From the OMG Nepal archive

Things to do in Bhaktapur

Sources and further reading

Featured photo: Juju dhau served in a clay bowl. Photo: Gaurav Dhwaj Khadka / Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA 4.0. Resized for web.

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